Mezcal: A Smoky Spirit with a Rich Cultural Legacy

Mezcal is a unique distilled spirit crafted from a variety of agave plants, a resilient succulent native to Mexico. Unlike tequila, which is exclusively made from blue agave, mezcal can be produced from over 30 different species of agave, each lending its own distinct flavour profile. Some of the most popular species include Espadín, Tobalá, and Madrecuixe, among others.

 

Historical Origins

The roots of mezcal stretch back centuries. While indigenous peoples of Mexico consumed fermented agave drinks like pulque long before European contact, the distillation process for mezcal began in the 16th century. Filipino migrants, arriving through the Manila Galleon trade, introduced Filipino-style stills, originally used for coconut spirits. These stills were ingeniously adapted to distil agave, giving birth to the mezcal we know today.

 

How Mezcal is Made

Agave Harvest: The process begins with harvesting the heart of the agave plant, called the “piña.” These piñas are roasted in traditional earthen pits, a step that infuses mezcal with its signature smoky flavour.

Processing: After roasting, the piñas are crushed (traditionally using a stone wheel called a "tahona") and fermented. They are then distilled in copper or clay stills, depending on the producer’s methods. Some producers employ different cooking techniques, such as steaming, which creates variations in flavour and aroma.

Types of Mezcal: Mezcal is categorized by its aging process, production methods, and unique ingredients. Examples include:

  • Joven: Unaged and vibrant, showcasing the raw essence of the agave.
  • Reposado: Aged for a few months in oak barrels, lending subtle notes of wood and vanilla.
  • Añejo: Aged for at least one year, offering complex, rich flavours.
  • Pechuga Mezcal: Distilled with fruits, spices, and even meats for a truly distinctive taste.
  • Artisanal and Ancestral: Produced using traditional, labour-intensive techniques to preserve the authenticity of the spirit.

 

Cultural Significance

Oaxaca: Around 90% of mezcal production takes place in Oaxaca, making the spirit a cornerstone of the region’s economy and cultural identity.

Environmental Sustainability: The surging popularity of mezcal has sparked concerns about its impact on natural resources, including water usage and deforestation. Efforts are underway to promote sustainable harvesting and production practices.

Cultural Heritage: Mezcal is more than just a drink; it’s a symbol of Mexican tradition. It plays a vital role in ceremonies, celebrations, and social gatherings, connecting generations through its rich history and deep cultural ties.

 

Whether sipped slowly to savour its smoky complexity or shared among friends during a lively celebration, mezcal tells a story of craftsmanship, heritage, and resilience in every drop.

 

The States in Green denote where Mezcal can be produced.

Production:

  • Geography: Mezcal can only be produced in the state of Oaxaca and six other states: Durango, Zacatecas, San Luis Potosi, Guanajuato, Guerrero and Tamaulipas,
     

  •  

    Key Terroir Factors:

    • Climate:

      • Altitude: Higher altitudes slow down agave growth, resulting in more concentrated sugars and unique, complex flavours.
      • Temperature: Wide temperature variations, such as hot days and cool nights, enhance sugar content and flavour complexity.
      • Rainfall: Adequate rainfall is essential for healthy agaves, though excessive rain may dilute sugar levels.
      • Sunlight: Abundant sunlight is indispensable for photosynthesis, ensuring optimal sugar production in the agave.

    • Soil:

      • Composition: The type of soil—whether rocky, sandy, or clay-rich—directly affects nutrient absorption and flavour development.
      • Drainage: Well-drained soils prevent root rot and promote effective water absorption, supporting healthy plant growth.
      • Mineral Content: Minerals in the soil subtly influence the agave's final flavour profile, adding layers of complexity.

    • Microclimate:

      • Wind: Local wind patterns can impact the growth rate and moisture retention of agave plants.
      • Topography: Features such as slopes, valleys, and proximity to water sources shape unique microclimates that influence plant development.

    Impact on Mezcal:

    • Flavour Profiles: Terroir plays a defining role in creating mezcal's distinctive flavour profiles. Agaves from different regions display unique characteristics, such as smokiness, fruitiness, earthiness, or subtle minerality.
    • Agave Varieties: Specific agave species are adapted to thrive in particular environments. For instance, Espadín flourishes in lower altitudes, while Tobalá prefers higher elevations, showcasing diverse flavours based on their origins.
    • Maturation Time: Terroir affects the agave's maturation period, which in turn influences its sugar content and the complexity of the final flavour.

     

 

Agave Variants 

 

Mezcal is made from the agaves below.

Agave Espadín – Renowned as the most commonly used agave in mezcal production, it offers a harmonious balance of flavours. With its mildly smoky and earthy notes, it serves as the cornerstone for many popular commercial mezcals.

Agave Tobalá – A smaller, wild agave, often prized for its sweeter, more complex flavour with notes of tropical fruit and floral undertones. It’s commonly found in artisanal mezcal production.

 

 

Agave Arroqueño – Known for its large size and intense, earthy flavor. Mezcals made from this agave can be robust and bold, with a distinctive smokiness.

Agave Tepeztate – This wild agave is slower to mature and produces a mezcal with complex, often wild flavours, ranging from herbal to fruity, and is considered a more rare and high-end option.

Agave Madrecuixe – A variety of agave that has a unique flavour profile, often described as herbaceous, mineral, or even grassy, with a strong smokiness.

Agave Cuishe – Another wild variety, known for its earthy and slightly vegetal flavor with a smooth, mineral quality. It’s often used for more artisanal mezcals.

Agave Durangensis – A more recent variety being explored for mezcal, known for its sweet, slightly floral taste with a hint of spice.

other lesser used variants

  1. Agave Tobaziche (Agave karwinskii)
  2. Agave Jabalí (Agave rhodacantha)
  3. Agave Mexicano (Agave mexicana)
  4. Agave Bicuishe (Agave karwinskii)
  5. Agave Cenizo (Agave durangensis)

Other Wild and Lesser-Known Agaves:

  1. Agave Chontal (Agave chontalensis)
  2. Agave Tequilana (Agave tequilana, although primarily used for tequila, it can also be used for mezcal)
  3. Agave Papalote (Agave cupreata)
  4. Agave Ensamble (A blend of agave species, including Espadín and others)
  5. Agave Penca Larga (Agave salmiana)
  6. Agave Pera (Agave peraza)
  7. Agave Varia (Agave varia)
  8. Agave Comisurana (Agave comisurana)
  9. Agave Verde (Agave angustifolia, a variety of Espadín)

Rare and Niche Agaves:

  1. Agave Coyote (Agave kerchovei)
  2. Agave Tabali (Agave potatorum, a variant of Tobalá)
  3. Agave Barril (Agave retusus)
  4. Agave Madrecuishe (Agave karwinskii, variant of Cuishe)
  5. Agave Chichicapa (Agave durangensis, another wild variety)

Harvesting:

Mature agave plants (piñas) are harvested by hand, often by skilled jimadores (harvesters) using a coa (a specialized tool).

The Process 

  1. Find the right plant: Look for the oldest, largest plants, which usually have the highest sugar concentration. 
     
  2. Cut the leaves: Remove the sharp leaves of the agave plant using a machete. 
     
  3. Cut the piña: Cut the piña, or heart, of the agave plant from the ground. The piña is shaped like a pineapple or pine cone. 
     
  4. Transport the piña: Move the piña to the distillery, often by truck or burro. 

 

Cooking Using a Horno Oven:

The horno is a large, earthen pit lined with volcanic or river stones.

Heating: Wood is burned inside, heating the stones to high temperatures, crucial for cooking.

Cooking the Piñas: Once heated, agave piñas (hearts) are placed inside, covered with stones and earth to trap heat.

The piñas roast for days, caramelizing starches and creating mezcal's complex flavours.

Significance of the Horno:

Flavour Development: The slow roasting develops mezcal's smoky flavour.

Traditional Method: The horno reflects mezcal's deep connection to tradition and nature.

Artisanal Quality: Managing the horno requires skill, representing artisanal mezcal craftsmanship.

 

 

Milling & Extraction:

  • Milling: The roasted piñas are then crushed or milled using traditional methods like tahonas (large stone wheels pulled by animals) or more modern techniques.  
     
  • Extraction: The crushed agave is pressed or macerated to extract the sweet juices.

. Fermentation:

  • Natural Fermentation: The extracted juices are fermented naturally in open-air vats or containers made from wood, stone, or even animal hides.  this process can take anywhere between 8 and 30 days.
     
  • Yeast: Indigenous yeasts such as Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Kluyveromyces marxianus, and Torulaspora delbrueckii that are naturally present in the extracted cooked agave juice contribute to the fermentation process.   
     

 

Distillation:

  • Traditional Stills: Traditionally, mezcal is distilled in copper or clay stills, often using direct fire.
  • Double Distillation: Most mezcal undergoes double distillation for a smoother and more refined spirit.  
     
  • Filipino Stills: Many traditional producers utilize Filipino-style stills, a unique legacy of historical trade routes.  (below)
     

 

 Aging  & Bottling

  • Joven: Un-aged mezcal, bottled immediately after distillation.  
     
  • Reposado: Aged in oak barrels for 2 months to 1 year.  
     
  • Añejo: Aged in oak barrels for 1-3 years.Bottling: The final product is bottled and may be further aged in the bottle.
    • Madurado: Aged in glass after distillation 
       
    • No new flavours: Aging in glass doesn't add new flavours, but it can enhance the mezcal's existing flavours 
       
    • Smoother texture: Aging in glass can make the mezcal smoother and more mouth filling . 
  • Additives (Optional): Some mezcals may include additives like gusano de maguey (worm) or other ingredients during the distillation process these are known as pechuga mezcals

 

A Few Key Mezcal Terms 

  • Espadín: This is the workhorse of the mezcal world. It's the most widely used agave, known for its ease of cultivation and relatively high yield. While some may consider it "basic," espadín offers a clean canvas for skilled mezcaleros to showcase their artistry. Look for espadín mezcals with balanced sweetness and pronounced herbal notes.
  • Wild Agave: Mezcal made from wild agaves offers a wider range of flavours, often with more complex and intriguing notes. Think: smoky, earthy, fruity, even funky. Common wild agaves include cuish, madrecuixe, tobala, mexicano, tepeztate, and jabalí.
  • Single Variety vs. Ensamble:
    • Single Variety: Made from a single type of agave, allowing you to experience the unique character of that particular agave.
    • Ensamble: A blend of different agaves, creating a more complex and nuanced flavour profile. Blending can be used to enhance a primarily espadín mezcal with small amounts of wild agave for a more interesting and affordable spirit.
  • Joven, Reposado, Añejo: These terms refer to the aging process:
    • Joven: Un-aged, bottled immediately after distillation.
    • Reposado: Aged in oak for 2 months to 1 year.
    • Añejo: Aged in oak for 1-3 years.

       

    • Pechuga Mezcal: A Unique and Flavorful Spirit

      Pechuga mezcal is a distinctive style where the distillate is infused with the breast of a chicken or turkey during the final distillation. This process, along with the addition of fruits, herbs, nuts, and spices, results in a unique, complex flavor profile.

      Key Characteristics:

      • Smoky and Meaty: Pechuga mezcal often exhibits smoky, meaty aromas with subtle sweet notes from the added ingredients.
      • Flavor Variations: The specific flavor profile varies greatly depending on the chosen ingredients, which are often closely guarded family secrets.

      Vegetarian/Vegan Considerations:

      Traditional pechuga mezcal is not vegetarian or vegan due to the inclusion of meat. However, some producers offer vegan-friendly alternatives using plant-based infusions.

      Examples:

      • El Jolgorio Pechuga: Made with espadín agave, turkey breast, and various fruits.
      • Del Maguey Pechuga: Features wild mountain apples, plums, and other ingredients.

 

Mezcal: From Agave to Glass!

 Discover the different brands and their rich history and unique flavours